JOGESHWARI CAVES AND  MUMBAI'S OLDEST GANAPATI

The Ganesh Chaturthi is undoubtedly the most popular festival in India especially in its western parts. The festival is celebrated with much pomp and ceremony for over 10 days all over Mumbai. In the overcrowded suburb of Jogeshwari under a mountain surrounded by slums sits the oldest murti of Lord Ganapati showing contrasting picture of the ornamented decorations of Ganapati celebrations in the city to the dilapidated cave temple of Jogeshwari.

Since the 2^nd century, rock cut caves were dug and carved from the basalt rock of the hills in the Deccan plateau. The practice reached its zenith in the 5^th century AD under Vakataka dynasty which ruled the Deccan region. As patrons of art, the world famous Ajanta caves were built during the reign of Vakataka king Harisena. After his death the dynasty did not last long and there were internal rivalries and the entire kingdom was disorganised. During this period it seems that some artisans travelled to the western parts of Maharashtra which was ruled by Kalachuris. The earliest known ruler of the Kalachuri dynasty was Krishnaraja. Historical evidence throws light on the development of caves at Jogeshwari followed by Elephanta in this part of the world. The Kalachuris being Shaivite dedicated the caves to Lord Shiva. The caves at Ellora were also developed in this period. 

Walter Spink, art historian at the University of Michigan accounts Jogeshwari caves as the ‘first largest Hindu cave temple’. However the once richly ornamented cave temple has lost its glory and its  condition has deteriorated over a period of neglect and encroachments. The site is now surrounded by slums while sewage runs through the caves further hurting its foundations. Walter Spink had visited the site in 1960 and mentioned about the sewage, slums and being a place for drinking and drugs at night. Today however the site is protected by Archaeological Survey of India.

Jogeshwari caves can be easily located at the western express highway on the Jogeshwari Vikroli link road. The main entrance goes through a passage cut from solid rock measuring 8 feet wide and 50 feet long. This passage with the help of six steps leads to a small chamber of 20 feet by 18 feet and 20 feet wide. This chamber has the main door to the cave temple. The door has 2 dwarpalas in a dilapidated condition. The two smaller chambers to the sides had 2 pillars completely withered away in the course of time. The right chamber had carving of Lord Shiva while the left had Lord Shiva in tandav position.

The central door opens to an immense hall of 90 feet high, dark even in the middle of the day. The hall has 20 pillars, 6 on each side dividing the hall in 4 aisles. Within the central hall is a temple of Goddess Jogehwari or Yogeshwari after whom the area is know today. To the right are 2 side doorways, 2 windows and 1 central doorway. This doorway opens to a verandah, 16 feet broad and 120 feet long whose outer area is supported by a row of 10 pillars and 2 pillasters. The wall of the door also has some rich carvings. Beyond the verandah is an open court with carvings and cells. There is a temple of Lord Shiva and Lord Hanuman here including an incomplete carving of a goddess. 

Game of dice between Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati

The main hall has another door on the eastern side which seems to be the main entrance in the ancient times. This door is attended by Dwarpalas and dwarfs. Above this door there are 3 sections of carvings pertaining to Lord Shiva. The top middle section is Lord Shiva worshipped by followers, the top left is Kalyansundar murti i.e the marriage of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati in presence of Lord Brahma officiating as priest and Lord Vishnu. The severed head of Daksha can also be seen in the carving. The top right section is a game of dice between Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. 

Nataraja

An exit from this hall leads to another open courtyard of 42 feet by 6 feet. The exit door has a rich intricate carving of Nataraja on the top, much defaced over the course of time. The door is also richly ornamented with figures including dwarpalas on either side. This courtyard leads to another hall about 30 feet by 18 feet with 2 side chambers of 4 pillars and 2 pilasters. Here the oldest Ganapati Murti can be seen painted in florescent orange. There is a rock cut passage here rising by a flight of 30 steps having a Ravananugraha carving in which Ravan tries to shake Kailas mountain although much destroyed today. 

The Jogeshwari caves is the largest cave complex in India after Ellora. Its sheer length of 320 feet and breadth of 200 feet carved under a mountain makes it an extraordinary architectural wonder cut from solid rock with hammer and chisel only. Inspite of this fact, these caves are fighting for survival from the increasing onslaught of man.

GALLERY:

Entrance

Main hall

Dwarpala

Dwarpala

Kalyansundar murti

Unfinished carving of a goddess

CHHATRAPATI SHIVAJI MAHARAJ

The People's King

 “Shivaji was one of the greatest national  saviors who emancipated our society and our Dharma when they were faced with the threat of total destruction.. He was a peerless hero, a pious hero and a God fearing king and verily a manifestation of all the virtues of a born leader as described in our ancient scriptures. He also embodied the deathless spirit of our land and stood as the light of the hope for the future”. These words by Swami Vivekanand truly describe the epic personality of a prince born in the mountains who by establishing Swarajya became one of the most illustrious leaders in Indian history.

By the 12th century, Indian subcontinent was a target of Muslim invasions. Mahmud Ghazni, Muhammed Ghori, Allaudin Khilji invaded India in different periods of history. These invaders accompanied with their huge armies destroyed farms and villages.  The Mughals introduced Jaziya tax which was to be paid only by the Hindus. In the course of time the condition of the common farmers became miserable.

The independent spirit of a Maratha Sardar, Shahaji Bhosale often brought him in bitter conflicts with the Mughals and Adilshah of Bijapur. However in a joint action by Shah Jahan and Adilshah, Shahaji was forced to surrender and was sent to Bangalore to look after Adilshahi territories and was barred from entering Maharashtra for the rest of his life. Little did he know that his younger son would fulfill his dream of independence in the future. 

Shivaji was trained in warfare, religion, politics, geography by his mother Jijabai and Shahaji’s trusted ministers namely Dadoji Kondadev, Baji Phasalkar and Sonopant Dabir. He started his relentless struggle against foreign rule by taking an oath in the Shiva temple of Rayreshwar. He declared his presence as a force against the colonial powers by hoisting the orange flag on the Torna fort after capturing it. Shivaji maintained law and order in and around Pune by giving an astonishing judgement in the Ranjegaon rape case. He ordered to amputate the left leg and right hand of the Patil when proved guilty of rape. His respect for other religions and women is what makes him a class apart from his contempory Muslim rulers. During one particular raid his army captured a large bounty of the Mughals but along with it they also brought the daughter in law of the former subhedar of Kalyan to be presented to Shivaji at Rajgad, the capital fort. He immediately honored her and sent her back to Kalyan under the escort of 500 horsemen. He gave funds to both temples and mosques and ordered his troops to respect Quran. His bodyguard was Madari Mehtar, a muslim while Noor Khan Beg was one of the commanders in his army.

First Capital of Shivaji Maharaj – The Rajgad Fort

The Mughals and the Adilshah now fearful at the growing strength of Shivaji sent its bravest generals to crush him. Afzal Khan, a Bijapuri general, Siddi Jauhar and Shaista Khan desecrated temples and destroyed villages. But with extraordinary will power, guerilla warfare, unmatched bravery, Shivaji and his soldiers put all efforts of their enemy in vain. He even visited Agra and insulted Aurangzeb in his own court. Shivaji looted the rich mughal port town of Surat, robbing the rich mughal merchants but did not harm the common Gujarati people. He built his own navy after realizing the importance of protection of the western frontiers and built many strong naval forts. On 4th June, 1674 Shivaji crowned himself and acclaimed the title “Kshatriya Kulawatasana Sinhasanadhishwar Shrimant Rajashri Shivaji Raje Bhosale Chhatrapti Maharaj” Indeed with his coronation the incomplete struggle of Prithviraj Chauhan, Maharan Pratap and several other Hindu kingdoms  were now put to rest.

Place of Throne on Raigad fort

Was he really a mountain rat as tagged by the Mughals and the British? In just a short period of time and with limited resources Shivaji challenged the mighty Mughals, Britsh, Portuguese and the Adilshais and carved an independent kingdom. He saved Hindu religion from its complete destruction from the hands of the Muslim invaders. His concept of Swarajya later inspired freedom fighters like Mahatma Gandhi and Lokmanya Tilak. Today 400 years after his death Shivaji is the father of the Indian Navy and is remembered as the king who was loved by his people. He is rightly hailed as ‘Janata Raja’ or ‘The People’s King’.

THE STORY OF MUMBAI

The Gateway of Western India (300 BC to 1960 AD)

So striking is the story of the maximum city that even global cities will bow down to its growth from tidal marsh land to a metropolis. Today known to the world as an overpopulated and endlessly scattered metro city was originally a group of 7 islands.

Thinking otherwise the legendary Samrat Ashok ceded the islands to the Mauryan empire in 300 BC and from here the journey of progress and prosperity never stopped for these islands. Unknown to him that the islands were inhabitated even during the South Asian Stone age as per remains found in Kandivili.  The Kanheri and Mahakali caves were built during his rule.  Greek geographer Ptolemy mentioned the 7 islands as Heptanesia. With the decline of the Maurays, the Satvahanas , the Abhiras of Western Maharashtra and the Vakatakas of Vidharbha ruled the islands.  The Kalachuris ruled central India in the 5th century and their feudatories the Mauryas of Konkan ruled the islands. The Jogeshwari caves were built during this period followed by the Elephanta caves between the 6th and 7th century. The Silhara dynasty of Konkan then ruled the islands between 860 to 1260 AD. The Walkeshwar Temple, Banganga, Ambarnath temple, Kopinehswar temple date back to this period. In 1292 AD, Marco Polo’s fleet passed though the  islands. However the islands saw its first ruler in 13th century in the name of Raja Bhimdev. He built a capital city of Mahikawati today known as Mahim. The Babulnath temple was built during his rule. The Pathare Prabhus,  Palshis  Pachkalshis, Bhandaris, Vadvals, Bhois, Agris and Brahmins came to the islands. He established a court house or Nyayagram today known  as Naigoan. His son Pratapbhimb built another city at the present site of Marol and named it Pratappur in 1303 AD.

Elephanta Caves

The first imprint of muslim invasion on the islands brought tyranny and demolition. Mubarrak shah, a regent of the Khilji dynasty invaded Mahikawati in 1318 AD. Pratapbhimb later recovered the islands and ruled till 1331 AD. In 1347 AD Niku Malik, Gujarati muslim invaded the islands, destroyed Mahikavati and fought a pitched battle with Nagardev, brother in law of Pratapbhimb at Byculla. He won the battle and killed Nagardev ending Hindu rule over the islands. The islands were under muslim rule from 1348 to 1534 AD amidst skirmishes between Gujarat Sultanate and Bahamani Kingdom. The Haji Ali dargah was built in 1421 AD to honour the muslim saint by the same name.

 It was in 1509 AD that the powerful Portuguese released the natural harbour of the islands and laid siege to Mahikawati. They gave it a name ‘a ilha da boa vida’ means the island of good life as it had abundant food, refreshment and other resources. The islands were abundant in mangoes, coconuts, rice and off course fish. While Kolis and Bhandaris were fishermen and sea traders, Kunbis and Argis cultivated fields, Malis tended the orchards.  In 1530-31 AD Nuno da Cunha, the Governor of Goa collected a fleet of 400 vessels for a grand parade at the harbour of Bombay and paraded all his forces at Esplanade. In the next 3 years, the Portuguese under a treaty with Sultan Bahadur Shah of Gujarat took over Thane, Bandra, Mahim with all its revenues. In 1528 AD, a Quinta or Manor Housewas built. St Michael Church was built at Mahim between 1510 to 1535 AD, St Andrews church at Bandra in 1570 AD,  Nossa Senhora de Bom Conselhiat Sion and church of Lady of Salvation at Dadar were built in 1596 AD. A Parel chapel which was later converted into a Government house by British finally got transformed in the current Haffkine Institute. A church of Our Lady of Hope was also built in Esplanade area.

The British however eyed the islands as a strong naval base south of Surat. A naval battle of Swally between the British and the Portuguese took place in 1612 resulted in a decisive victory of the former. But it was on 23rd June, 1661 when the marriage treaty between Charles the second and Infanta Catherine of Portugal was signed and the British formally controlled the islands.  A fort mounted with 100 guns was also built around the Manor House.  In 1669, Geral Aungier, the governor built a mint, erected buildings, hospital, warehouse within the fort. In 1674, Bhimji Parekh introduced the first printing press in Bombay.  In 1675 the original Mumbadevi temple was built at the Bori Bunder Creek. Later it was destroyed and a new temple was erected at its current location. The plague and malaria in 1686 and 1696 took a heavy toll on life in the islands and the prosperity took an all time low. The Banaji Limji Agiary was consecrated in 1709 by Seth Banaji Limji, a Parsi businessman. After 1718 the islands saw steady progress  inspite of the Maratha power looming large in the area. The Marathas had defeated the Portuguese and reached upto Madh fort in Malad. Back in the island fortress, internal security was improved and dockyard was extended. Mayor’s court and prison was established at Dongri fort. Land was reclaimed and a causeway from Sion to Mahim was also built. The Salsette Mahim boat service was resumed in 1739. People started building houses in Chakala, Umarkhadi, Mandvi, Bhuleshwar. The village of Mahim had rice cultivations while Mahim had cocoa palms. For protection, there were the forts of Bombay, Mazgaon, Dongri, Sewri, Mahim, Worli on these islands. The Bombay dry dock, Asia’s first dry dock was built by Lovji Nusserwanjee Wadia and his brother Sorabji in 1750.  By 1780 the Company started its interest of becoming a political power in India and by 1775 commenced the First Anglo Maratha War. Thane was taken by storm However the war resulted in a Maratha victory and signing of Treaty Of Salbai. But the war itself awakened the British to strengthen its defences of the island. The year 1770 also marks the commencement of cotton trade with China but perhaps the most striking construction was the Hornby Vellard in 1782, a project that blocked the Worli creek and inked the islands into one big single island with a natural harbour. The islands now became a metropolis with beautiful and tall buildings. Vaccination of small pox was introduced by 1782 and postal communication with Madras was started in 1788 AD.

The highly venerated Siddivinayak temple was built on 19th November, 1801 by Laxman Vithu and Deubai Patil.  On 17th February, 1803 a great fire completely destroyed the buildings on the island but the road to prosperity now could not be stopped. The second Anglo Maratha War 1803-05 resulted in a decisive victory of the British follwoed by a complete desolation of the Maratha power in the Third Anglo Maratha war 1816-18. The British now enjoyed unchallenged authority over India.  A carriage road upto Bhor Ghatwas built from 1803 to 1830. Regular communication with England was done by steamer services. Bombay Chamber of Commerce was established in 1836 as cotton trade flourished. The Elphinstone High School was built in 1822 and the college a few years later. The town hall was completed in 1833, Christ Church in Byculla in 1835 respectively. New roads were built and Chor Bazaar was crowded with warehouses. The Great Peninsular Railway was started in 1844 and the first train ran to Thane in 1853. In 1840, the first joint stock bank, the Bank of Bombay was started and in the next 20 years the Oriental Banking Corporation, the Commercial Bank of India, the Charted Mercantile, the Agra and United Service, the Chartered and the Central Bank of Western India came into existence. In 1854, The first cotton mill, the Bombay Spinning and Weaving Company’s mill commenced working. Between 1841 to 1855 the old fort was demolished changing the Bombay skyline forever. In 1857, the University of Bombay was established.

BMC Headquaters

Around 1858 Vihar water work project was undertaken to provide ample water supply to the city. Bellasis road, Mahim Causeway, Grant Medical college was completed in 1845 and tramways in Colaba were laid in 1860. New drainage system was initiated in 1861 and the Bhor Ghat railway was opened in 1863. In 1866 arrangements with the Bombay Coast and River Steam Navigation Company for running steam ferries between Bombay and Mandva, Karanja, Rewas, and Uran was commenced. The opening of Suez Canal speeded up transport between Bombay and England. The Carnac, Masjid and Elphinstone overbridge were in in 1867. Mr. Premchand Raichand donated 4 lakh rupees for an university library and a tower to be named after his mother which is known today as  Rajabai Tower. The J.J School of Arts and 40 drinking fountains donated by Cowasjee Jehangir, Parsi Hospital at Colaba,  the Sasson Mechanics Institute, Victoria Museum  were great creations at this period of time. The first street lights were put up at Bhendi Bazaar and gas lighting on the streest was initiated by 1866. Work at Mazagaon docks was started in 1863. The Government Secretariat, Convocation Hall, Telegraph Departmentwere also built. Crawford market came up in 1869 and Tulsi water workswere also taken. The Prince’s dock designed by Thomas Ormiston was opened in 1880.  The Bombay Tramways commenced from Colaba to Grant Road. New roads were laid out like Wodehouse and Mayo roads, Hope Street, Masjid Bunder road, Napier road, Kazi Syed street, Chinch Bunder 2nd road, Prabhadevi road. In 1881, a small pox epidemic shook normal life  but work did not seize to exist as Bombay was now rising to the heights of Liverpool or Manchester. By 1873 beauty endowed with Victoria gardens, Elphinstone circle gardens and Northbrook Garden near Grant road.Between 1881 to 1891, the Fergusson road, the Rippon road, part of Charni road, the Jacob circle, Sankli Street were built, fort area was given a new drainage system, Bhandarwada water works  and Malabar hills filter bedswere completed in 1884 and Powai works in 1889. The iconic Victoria Terminus was built between in 1887 which still landmarks Mumbai in several movies world over.  The Tansa water works followed in 1892. In 1893, Sarvajanik Ganesh Utsav was started in Mumbai and Pune by Lokmanya Tilak In Keshavji Naik chawl in Girgaum. The mills were responsible for influx of people from Ratnagiri and Satara hence chawls came up in Byculla and neighbouring areas. This also gave rise to typical residential patterns of the city namely the Parsis made their home in the North fort, Goanese in Cavel, Julhai – silk weavers in Madanpura, grain merchants in Mandvi, Bene Israel in Samuel Street and Israel mohalla, dancing girls in Khetwadi and Kamathipura, Sidis in Null Bazaar, Konkan people in Parel, Nagpada, Byculla, Kolis in Colaba to Sion, muslims in Mandvi and Umarkhadi, Brahmins in Girgaum.  Perhaps the most saddest chapters in this story happened around 1896-97 when bubonic plague stuck the residents of the city and  the death toll was estimated at 1,900 people per week. People like Jamshedji Tata and several others pulled their might to eradicate the disease. The anti-plague activities of the health department involved police searches, isolation of the sick, detention in camps of travellers and forced evacuation of residents in parts of the city. These measures were widely regarded as offensive. Mill industry and trade was affected severely. The islands city closed its doors of the 19th century in fear and sadness.

As Bombay entered the modern era, Japan started competing with Indian yarn and hence the city took a beat in trade. Inspite of the odds, there were  85 mills in the city, many of them having completely switched over to weaving from spinning and most becoming mixed spinning and weaving units. In 1911, King George fifth and Queen Mary visited India and the Gateway of India was built to commemorate their arrival. In 1913, Sydenham college was started, the first college of commerce in Asia. TataHydroelectricity power supply was commenced in 1915 and 1919 at Khopoli and Bhivpuri respectively  gave a facelift to the city. The birth of the Indian film industry took place in 1913 with Raj Harsihchandra by Dadasaheb Phalke as it premiered on 21st April, 1913 at Olympia Theatre, Grant road.  The first cooperative housing society in India namely Talmakiwadi was started in 1915 in Grant Road by Rao Bahadur SS Talmaki , a Chitrapur Saraswat Brahmin. The Mills Owners Association got the suspension of cotton excise duty in 1925 and later abolished. Liquid fuel and oil depots were set up at Mallet Bunder, kerosene oil installations at Sewri, and the petrol installations  at Wadala giving impetus to oil trade. By 1930’s development declined due to trade depression however Shivaji Park was laid in 1929.  The Bombay Telephone Company switched over in 1924 from the manual exchange to the automatic system, and by 1935 had as many as 12,000 exchange lines serving Bombay and its suburbs. The first motorised bus travelled in 1926 between Afgan church and Crawford market while first electric train ran between Churchgate and Borivili in 1928. In 1933, a direct radio-telephone service was opened to London. In 1932, J.R.D Tata flew a Puss Moth carrying air mail from Karachi to Bombay.

Gradually  systematic development of the suburbs was taken by the government in areas of Khar, Bandra, Vile Parle, Santacruz, Andheri, Ghatkopar and Chembur while Juhu, Versova, Marve were considered as picnic spots.  The Quit India movement was launched by Mahatma Gandhi at Gowalia Tank maidan on 8th August, 1942 followed by the Royal Indian mutiny  on 18th February, 1946.  After independence the Bombay Presidency was restructured as Bombay state and in the following riots of the partition over 100,000 Sindhi Hindus were given refuge in township today called as Ulhasnagar. However a strong desire to form a Marathi speaking state started to develop in different parts of the Bombay State. The State Reorganisation Committe submitted a report a bilingual state for Maharashtra–Gujarat with Bombay as its capital. This was followed by fiery speeches and violent protests. People were killed in the resultant police firing. Finally on 1st May 1960 Maharashtra state with Bombay as its capital was formed with the merger of Marathi speaking areas. Flora Fountain was renamed Hutatma Chowk honouring the sacrifice of 105 martyrs for the cause of Maharashtra. Tram services seized to exist in 1964. In 1995 Bombay was renamed as Mumbai as per its historical reference to Mumbadevi.

Fast forward to 2017, most of the historical monuments are in dilapidated condition. The protectors of the island city namely Mahim and Worli forts are beyond repairs. However the city itself does not allow its residents to forget the long history of its existence. Most of the names in several places are historical.  Tamarind trees close to the sea shore gave Chinch Bunder, plantation of Bhendi gave Bhendi Bazaar, Umbar trees gave Umbharvada, plantations of jackfruit and bananas gave Phanaswadi and Kelewadi respectively. Four channels on inlets of the sea gave the name Chowpatty while plantations of babul where a shrine was built was called Babulnath. Kambhal grooves gave Cumbala hill. History cannot be wiped out but only lost or forgotten.  Mumbai’s historical journey through ages makes it an overpopulated yet a remarkable city to live in.

Reference: Gazeeteer of Bombay Presidency

VIJAYDURG FORT

The story of Victory Fort!

On the coast of Sindhudurg near the Vaghotan creek stands an unparalleled architectural wonder. An undersea wall at a depth of 8 to 10 metres was built from stones. This wall is estimated to be 122 metres long, 3 metres high and 7 metres broad. The wall protected the Vijaydurg fort as attacking ships were not able to reach near it. It is still untraceable who built this wall. However National Institute of Oceanography at Goa  and Western Naval Command conducted at study of the undersea wall and submitted a report that the wall might have been built around 17th century. Going by this report there was only one great fort architect at this time i.e Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and this is the story of his victory for VIJAYDURG.

Vijaydurg fort was previously known as ‘GHERIA’ as it was surrounded by water from all sides, gradually some land was reclaimed and the fort now watches the sea from three sides only. Gheria was built by Raja Bhoj, the second in 1200 AD. Subsequently the Bahamanis and Bijapuris ruled the fort.  In 1653, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj captured and strengthened the fort  giving it the finest features, the triple line of walls, the numerous towers, and the massive interior buildings. In 1698, the gallantrous Kanhoji Angre, commander of the Maratha navy  made the fort his capital and tormented British ships for the next 50 years. In 1717, British ships attacked but were defeated followed by another failed attack by joint forces of British and Portuguese ships in 1720. Later that year a British ship ‘CHARLOTTE’ was attacked and taken to Vijaydurg fort. Even the Dutch attacked the fort and failed in 1724. When Kanhoji went in attacking mode the loss at the other side was much more than expected. Maratha navy at this time captured several ships like the English East Indiaman Derby of  twenty guns, Vigilant of sixty-four and the Ruby of fifty guns from the British, Forty gun Jupiter from the French and three Dutch ships of fifty, thirty-six, and eighteen guns. After the death of Kanhoji Angre, one of his sons Tulaji took control of the Maratha navy. This gave rise to an unfortunate and ill fated ego conflict between him and the Peshwa Nanasaheb.  Tulaji refused to accept the supremacy of Peshwa , stopped paying revenue and raided Peshwa’s territories. In order to end Tulaji’s dominance, the Peshwa signed a treaty with the British according to which the British would attack from sea under Admiral Watson  while the Marathas from the land. Tulaji Angre astonished by the might of the opposite side left the fort under the charge of his brother and surrendered to the Maratha general. Watson then summoned the fort to surrender on 12th February, 1756. Getting no answer from the fort the British ships sailed towards the fort  under heavy fire from Angria’s ships. By evening on the 13th February the fort finally surrendered to the British navy and the Peshwa’s army.   250 cannons, six brass mortars, an immense quantity of stores and ammunition, £10,000 in silver rupees, and £30,000 in valuable effects were taken in possession. Tulaji Angre lived a life of prisoner until his death. By the treaty, the fort was handed over to the Peshwa who made Anandrao Dhulap as the Admiral of the navy. His decendents still live in the village today. Under this new Admiral, the Peshwas now made vigorous attacks on the British. In 1780 Anandrav attacked and captured an English ship carrying despatches to the Court of Directors, and imprisoned an officer in Basalgad near Mahabaleshwar. Again in April 1782, in spite of a gallant resistance, he captured the Banger a ship of the Bombay Marine. By 1818, with the decline of the Maratha empire, the Dhulap family surrendered the fort to the British.

Vijaydurg is 517 kms from Mumbai and is well connected by road from Devgad and Kankavali. It is believed to be one of the two forts where Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj hoisted the saffron flag. The road through a typical konkan village takes us straight to the main entrance of the fort. The first place of interest is the ancient temple of Lord Hanuman built by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj after capturing the fort.  As we move forward we reach to the first door of the fort known as JIBHICHA DARWAJA. The massive wall of the fort still has white markings of the cannon balls fired from British ships. One can also see ‘JUNGYAS’ on top of these walls. Jungyas are small openings in the wall to fit small cannons and guns. Vijaydurg fort along with Jungyas also has bigger openings in walls called as FANJYAS for larger cannons. These were built in such a way that there  is a decent slope towards the wall. Once the ball was fired,  the cannons tend to go backwards and hence the slope was prepared so that the cannons came back towards the wall automatically. Provisions have been in the walls and also on pathsways to allow rainwater drain into the sea. A 5 minute semi circular walk takes us to the MAHA DARWAJA which still has its wooden door but now it seems to have withered away. The Mahadarwaja has sections for soldiers while the upper section has the NAGARKHANA. While we see cannons on all other forts, Vijaydurg offers cannon balls used in those days. Once inside the main entrance there are almost 50 cannon balls of different sizes kept at the sides of the pathways. There are also 2 circular towers called as RANI MAHALS of one and two storeyed respectively including  quarters for soldiers opposite to these towers. Other attractions include the RAJ DARBAR, TEMPLE OF GODDESS BHAVANI, HORSE STABLE etc are classic examples of Maratha architecture. The fort has 2 tunnels which can also be used today only shows the extraordinary genius of its maker. There are unconfirmed reports of a third underground tunnel 200 metre long to the Dhulap village, although this tunnel is now partially blocked.  A wall on the adjacent hill can also been seen today originally built to deceive and confuse the enemy. The fort has also been a landmark for scientific explorations too as in 1868 Sir J. Norman Lankier, a British scientist, was observing a sun eclipse from this fort when he noticed Helium gas around the sun in the form of yellow flames.  A few kilometres from the fort stands a beautiful ancient temple called as Shri Dev Rameshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Its chief interest is the entrance which is 250 yards long cut through a mountain. One has to climb downwards through a plight of steps to reach the temple. It  has a huge bell which has engraving of 1791 on it. It seems to have been brought from a captured Portuguese ship . One cannot miss the beautiful wall paintings depicting Ramayana and Mahabharata on the walls of the temple. Outside the temple premises a Samadhi of Sambhaji Angre, son of Kanhoji Angre can also be seen.

Vijaydurg fort is one of best wonders of strategic Maratha architecture. Its tunnels, walls make it  one of best coastal forts of Maharashtra.

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